One of the suggestions along the way was to drill holes in the concrete, install bolts, drill holes in the track, and then use nuts above and below the track to set it's height ever 2 ft. Although this sounds like the perfect way to assure level every 2 ft, it's somewhat prohibitive.
First, you have to talk yourself into drilling 8 holes into each track segment. Then you have to drill 16 holes in the concrete for each segment. After that you have to install 32 bolts in the concrete, install 32 nuts, place the track and if it lines up, install the final 32 nuts. Of course you have to level it once you get all of that done.
Since drilling holes in the shop floor is a somewhat permanent solution, you have to be pretty damned sure that you're going to be using the sawmill exactly where you drill cause it's not longer a "portable unit" anymore. So yes, we were somewhat surprised by this advice. Although we did contemplate this out of desperation, we decided against it.
Rather than bolt it down, we did want to do something to make sure that Hudson knew we were taking care of the leveling and that our base surface was not the issue. So, we utilized jetline and a laser level to determine the exact deviance between the concrete, true level, and the bottom of the tracks. We then cut our supports to 1/16th inch of that deviance based on 2 1/2 inches average.
The end result was each block was level from front to back and side to side for the full length of the track. A level base was no longer the issue. However, the crown in the track caused the track to stand higher than the base in a few places. :-(
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